Distance: 63.9 miles / 92.7 km
Elevation: 9,343 feet / 2,150 m
Time: 9 hours and 33 minutes (7 hours and 6 minutes cycling)
A big day ahead
Because of the unavailability of good value hotels, and any campsites whatsoever, today was always going to be one of the big days. The plan was to ride three passes – the St Gotthard Pass (2,091m), the Furkapass (2,436m) and the Grimselpass (2,164m). Thankfully none of these were ridden from sea level, but even so the total elevation gain across the three was 2,847m – which would make today the day with the most climbing. More than two of Ben Nevis!
Whilst I set my alarm early, what that really means with me is more time to faff. This was also true today, though I did manage to set off at 09:05 – the earliest I’ve managed on any day so far, even with campsite packing. That seems to be about as good as I can manage at the minute.
Looking for food
The first climb started almost instantly after the start. Whilst I had eaten some breakfast at the campsite, I was on the lookout for any snacks I could get my grubby mits on given that it was Sunday. There was a petrol station available that sold various items, including something called a ‘7 days croissant’. I have never eaten (nor seen them for sale) before. However, they are well regarded as the food of choice for cyclists of the TCR (Transcontinental Cycling Race). They have some sort of folklore/reputation about them… So I had to try one! They look really cheap and basic but they don’t taste so bad. That’s probably the best praise I can give them.
I don’t know how weird things happen to me, but there was also a folk band filming their music video at the petrol station. My loud clip clipping shoes are probably a part of it, unless it’s dubbed. They didn’t grumble about it, unlike the geese lovers. So let’s hope it is dubbed, or I’ve spoiled it.
St Gotthard Pass
One of the unique attractions of the St Gotthard pass is that the top 5km is cobbled. There’s also a road tunnel (see yesterday for a photo of the drill bit), which means the pass itself is not mega busy. Up to where the cobbles begin, the climb is like most of the other climbs I’ve completed so far – lots of hairpin bends/switchbacks, and views of various mountain valleys behind. The cobbled section is obviously harder to cycle, especially with luggage, but thankfully it isn’t so steep. You get some lovely views of your progress all the way up, and I found it very enjoyable indeed. I rode the 15km ascent from c.1,170m to 2,091m above sea level in about 3 hours (including photo stops). Not the fastest really, but I’m not here to break any speed records.
Rather coincidentally, there was another band at the summit of this climb playing various Johnny Cash songs. It’s very strange that I hadn’t seen a band throughout the whole journey yet I saw two in really quick succession today. I don’t think I’m in their music video though. Much to my surprise, the summit had a fast food van so I enjoyed a Bratwurst whilst they tried their best to sound good.
There was then a quick descent of less than half an hour to c.1,500m above sea level. It had been really windy near the summit of the ascent, and there were some sharp cliff drops off the edge of the road without any barrier. I decided to keep a central position for nearly the entire descent, much to the annoyance of some drivers! But I think it was worth it for my own safety.
Furkapass
Following this, an almost instant ascent of the Furkapass awaited – all the way up to 2,436m. This would be the second highest point I’ve ever been on a bike – and before this trip nearly 1,000m above my previous best (Vršič Pass in Slovenia).
One of the car chases from the James Bond film “Goldfinger” was filmed on this pass, and one of the roads is called the “James Bond Strasse” to commemorate this. There is also a plaque.
Even wearing arm and leg warmers, it wasn’t particularly warm. This one only took me two hours of ascending (including stops) – the difference is mostly down to less photo stops, less wind (I may have even had a tail wind) and the road being without cobbles. Sadly, there was no band to greet me at the top.
Grimselpass
I hadn’t eaten anything between the passes, so I was running on close to empty at the summit. From there I could see approx 800m of the descent in front of my eyes. The rather depressing thing was that I could also see the next ascent I needed to ride from here as well – the Grimselpass.
It almost seemed a little bit upsetting to descend 800m to then ascend 400m, but the hairpins down and back up again did look really cool. The only food available was from a hotel, but a bottle of Coca Cola was £5 so I did not ask about the price of the sausages. Instead I ate my emergency supplies I’d been carrying since day 1. I guess that’s what they’re for, but I could do to replenish some of them now for my own peace of mind.
Descending to Innertkirchen
Tonight’s end point is a small town called Innertkirchen. I ordered a main meal for my tea – with fries – and the two dishes were separate this time! The server said the portions were huge but I probably could have eaten something else as well to be honest. Data from my power meter suggests 3,445 calories burned on top of my daily allowance and I reckon I ate less than 2,000 on the ride – so I wasn’t even being greedy I don’t think.
I am starting to feel pretty tired, but I’m beyond excited because tomorrow morning’s activity is not cycling related ???? There will still be a ride, but not until after dinner.
