Distance: 25.1 miles / 40.4 km
Elevation: 2,969 feet / 969 m
Colls: Coll de la Creueta (207 m)
When I woke up this morning, I was sad because this would be my last day of cycling here. More than that, I had fourteen days of house-bound quarantine to come when I landed back in the UK. I will really miss the sunshine and the fresh air – things I’ve taken for granted the last couple of weeks. When I can venture outside again in the UK, it will be mid-November. This means that both my summer bike and kit will not be used again for at least another five months. It really does feel like a lot of lasts will be happening today.
For my last ride here, I thought I would repeat a ride from the first day. Since I had a lot of packing to do this afternoon, I didn’t really have the time for anything more substantial. Though, in an effort to not accept that this was the end, I added on a couple of pointless extensions! The first of these was to the small settlement of Formentor itself. I wouldn’t bother again.
Back on course, the weather was warm, sunny and clear. Since it was the weekend, there were more cyclists about than I was used to seeing. I had read online that some Governments had opened back up the Balearic Islands for quarantine-free travel recently. This might have also made a small difference – though all resorts were closing down for Winter a week today.
Return to base
After reaching the summit of the very last climb of the day, I had to stop a minute. From here I could almost get back to the hotel without any more pedalling. I took the below photo of Port de Pollença, towards the bay, and started to think about everywhere I’d been.
Instead of going back to the hotel, I thought I’d stray from the intended course to the beach. Rough cobbles down the seafront to finish off my time here was probably not the greatest idea on a 1000 mile old arse. It’s like some of the leather handbags for sale at yesterday’s market.
I decided to eat one last pizza from Café Vitho on the seafront. When I told the waitress it was my last day and I was sad to be leaving, I was quite surprised when she said simply “good”. I had actually eaten here quite a few times, and I didn’t think I had been unreasonable with her. A little bit later she apologised, having checked out some of the language she was unfamiliar with on her phone. I’ll put it down to my accent.
Reflections
When I first arrived here, I did not have a mileage target in mind. The biggest aim first and foremost was to ride my bike a lot and enjoy myself. In the early days, I wouldn’t actually say that my fitness level was all that. The horrible weather at home had put a bit of a downer on my motivation to ride, and I was going out less often than I should. But as the days progressed I could feel myself getting a little bit better on every ride. Rides such as to the three monasteries would have been such a slog without building up to that level beforehand. I was probably at the fittest point I’d been all year – but sadly, the losses were inevitable now winter was here.
The hire car allowed me to visit some places I would not otherwise have been able to. Whilst I can say nothing bad about the cycling around Port de Pollença, I seem to enjoy riding new roads. Below I’ve generated a map of all my rides. I think it’s fair to say that I did a whole lot of exploring.
Had there been an extra day, I possibly would have ridden Llucmajor-Costitx-Palma-Llucmajor. This would have filled in one of the only major gaps in the map.
Around half way through, I thought I could probably reach 1,000 miles if I continued on the same trajectory. Whilst it actually wouldn’t have mattered had I not made it, I’m pleased to report that today’s ride pushed me to 1,002.
A lot of things worked out well for me. Mechanically, my bike was perfect – I had no punctures, nor did I drop the chain. I was also able to ascend every climb successfully; struggling only because of excessive alcohol consumption.
On a less positive note, I have spent quite a lot more money than I intended. Whilst the big ticket item was a whole new pair of cycling shoes, I also needed a new lock early doors. My rims also seemed to eat through brake pads quickly, despite the roads being smooth and dry. I had to replace them on two occasions. My hire car also cost significantly more than advertised; reviews online seem to indicate this is a common problem with Goldcar.
Mallorca travel tips
Where to stay
Whilst Port de Pollença was quite quiet, I can confidently say this was because of the pandemic. I have visited on multiple occasions previously, and it’s a really good place for road cyclists to stay.
- The majority of hotels have secure bike storage facilities. I have stayed in the Duva previously and it is great! The Cabot Pollença Park is also highly rated.
- If you wish to hire a bike, I have nothing bad to say about Pro Cycle Hire. They really helped me out by lending me a quick release, for the entirety of my trip, free of charge. On a couple of evenings, whilst enjoying a beer on their terrace, they helped countless other cyclists in similar predicaments. Nothing ever seemed too much of a problem for them, and they were genuinely nice people. Some other cycle hire shops were only interested in helping me if I hired a whole new wheel set.
- There are a great choice of bars and restaurants in the centre
- Bike components are easy to get hold of if the unfortunate happens
- The major climbs of Sa Calobra, Cap de Formentor and The Orient are fairly local
- You have the option of flat or hilly, mountainous rides
- The Mallorca Cycle Shuttle can take you (and your bike) to destinations further away
Whilst I have never stayed there, Platja de Muro is another popular place to stay. This is the starting point of the famous Mallorca 312 sportive, and has many bars, hotels and cycle shops nearby.
Where to ride
I was here for a long time, and could spread things out quite evenly. If you’re here for a week, it’s a challenge to fit everything in from the bucket list. This is what I would recommend:
- Cap de Formentor on the first day. By the time you’ve arrived at the hotel and set up (or collected) your bike, it will be the afternoon. You probably won’t have time for a ride longer than this.. even if you do, I would still recommend this. More often than not, your bike will need tweaking once you return, so it’s better to not over-exert yourself. You can extend around the Alcudia Bay if you’re back in good time.
- Mallorca Cycle Shuttle to Andratx. Ride back to Port de Pollença via Puig Major.
- An easier day – the Muro, Petra, Búger, Sineu area. Perhaps try Puig de Randa if you don’t plan on riding the three monasteries route.
- Sóller via the Coll de Femenia and Lluc. Coll de Sóller. The Orient Valley if you’re feeling up to it. Return via the lanes through Campanet
- Coll de Sa Batalla, followed by Coll dels Reis from Sa Calobra
- If you’re feeling up to it, the Mallorca Cycle Shuttle to/from Portocolom. Three monasteries route. If you’re feeling tired, ride to Arta and climb Ermita de Betlem
Where to eat
I visited and ate in a lot of places. Options were really limited because of the pandemic, but luckily I’m not a fussy eater. The following places were clear highlights:
- Café Vitho, Port de Pollença
- Cycling Planet, Alaró
- Sa Routa Verda, Caimari
- Pro Cycle Hire, Port de Pollença
I also found myself stopping at Trady’s supermarket in Campanet regularly – mostly for more drinks, but for crisps also.
That’s a wrap
Sadly, this is the end.. until my next adventure. If you’ve read this far, then well done for sticking with it! When I started this blog, I naively thought I’d be publishing all the pages before the end of my quarantine. The reality is that it’s taken me hundreds of hours to reach this point. Whilst it’s been a good distraction during lockdown, ultimately it’s been written for your entertainment. If you’ve enjoyed reading this, please let me know – I am keen to hear your comments!
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